Women are living a strange and radical era of changes, evolution and revolution. On one hand we have reached total empowerment, completely free of restrictions and any kind of social discrimination. On the other hand we still have to fight against some clichès and prejudices which have been attributed to us for centuries. Where is the real drift then? Actually, it’s a total mess. Emancipation doesn’t mean turning into men, but it’s not a matter of becoming vulgar and shameless women too. So the secret is finding the balance, showing off self confidence, sobriety, femininity, tenacity and the open-mindedness this world demands, plus a touch of power, strength and independence. We don’t have to mould our personalities to satisfy someone else’s principles or tastes, we just need to reveal what has been oppressed for such a long time: the belief in the invincibility of our persuading womanliness.
So, who run the world? Girls, obviously, but in suits. This is how designers are interpreting our unstoppable growth in their fall/winter 2016/17 collections. Probably I’ve never seen so many suits on ladies during the fashionweeks, but this proves that fashion is the mirror of the society we live in and that designers watch over and listen to the issues we encounter each day. Does the customer ask for gender equality? The answer will be an overwhelming genderless trend. Do people want fashion represent diversity? If it’s so, we’ll immediately see new, original, androgynous faces on the catwalks. Less goddess, more women.
These are, generally speaking, the impressions I got of the latest shows.
Hundred of interpretations of the masculine femininity hit the runways.
Trussardi – This show is just the idyllium for all women who love wearing suits and ties. Gaia Trussardi took all menswear staples, such as DB blazers, waiscoats, the Prince of Wales and the Pistriped suit, embellished them with refined and fluid fabrics and adorned with accessories such as Byron-esque foulards, creating flattering shapes and waves and ended each outfit with a “dandy-cowgirl” allure. This collection is the perfect example of what “women in suits” really means.
What I mostly like of a suit, or let’s generally say “men style”, is that you can be comfortably elegant, attractive, sporty, casual but at the same time impeccable. And it’s not true that men’s fashion is limited to a few pieces. Forget about this clichè, because one can reinvent a suit in so many ways that it can make spin your head. Let’s take a look at Courrèges, for example: his minimal, perfectly fitted suits show clearly how a fashionable lady can simply transform them into everyday looks with a pair of sneakers and a simple turtleneck. And what about a jacket on a mini skirt? Why not? Just to add a girly touch with a preppy edge.
If we’re talking about an easy-going, relaxed urban woman we mustn’t forget about what Brunello Cucinelli has thought for us: over sizes, baggy pants pleated on the waist, layers, lightweight jackets, a little of sportswear inspiration, still with a relevant presence of the typical brand’s sartoriality. Last but not least, softness in shapes and fabrics, such as cashmere, brushed wools, flanels and alpacas, which are without any doubt a guarantee of the made in Italy quality uniqueness.
The list of the genderless collections for the next seasons is actually neverending, so that I could write an encyclopedia about them, but there’s still one designer I’d like to focus on, Sir Paul Smith. Knighted by Queen Elizabeth for his effort in Britain’s fashion, he has built up an artistic reign around his brand. As a creative person with thousands different facets, Smith is also a self-inspired man, who looks at the past and dredges up some elements reexamining them with a modern and contemporary eye. In the fall/winter 2016/17 collection he resurrected the paisley imprint of the vintage scarves he sold in his little shop in the 70’s and the bitten apple decoration clawed back from an 80’s collection. For that reson the adjectives I’d rather use for his creations are positively energetic, tastefully functional, creatively eclectic. An unequalled designer, because of his capacity to bound simplicity to trasgression, eccentricity to grace, art to fashion, past to the future.
Here’s an overview of all the “women in suits” seen on the runways for the next fall/winter season. Enjoy!