Fashion Diary

Alena Akhmadullina S/S 2016 collection: fashion under the sea

“You dream about going up there
But that is a big mistake
Just look at the world around you
Right here on the ocean floor
Such wonderful things surround you
What more is you lookin’ for?”

Who does remember the Disney song from ” The Little Mermaid”? I do, and it naturally came out of my mouth as I saw the Alena Akhmadullina’s fashionshow during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. The catwalk turned into a wavy sea inhabited by little cloth fishes. Models appeared from behind an old boat, wrapped in sophisticated and sheer fabrics, enriched by fur applications reminding of the seafoam, little embroideries on delicate tulle dresses and elaborated details resembling the natural elements of the sea in all its purity and magnificence. Immersed in shades of blue, all the pieces were elegantly illuminated by an unadulterated white, embellished now and then by coloured aquatic animals. Even accessories represented ocean floor elements such as bubbles or motherpearls bags and shell earrings. What I really appreciated was the revisited denim usage (the denim gown, totally elaborated to create a wavy effect) and the stiched surprising particulars which showed off the craftmanship of this classy and tradition-rooted designer. In fact, culture and meticulousness are the common thread of all Alena Akhmadullina’s collections: the fall/winter one has many applications as well and is inspired by the artworks of Tatiana Mavrina, a sovietic painter from the 20th Century who drawed en plein air the colourful russian landscapes. Nature and art are the other two characterstics Akhmadullina’s fashion. This spring/summer collection is based on a medieval Russian epic and its main character Sadko, but it clearly reminisces the japanese ukiyo-e painter and printmaker Katsushika Hokusai and his famous Kanagawa wave too.

This fashionshow, with its perfect balance between colours and shapes, craftsmanship and artistism, was absolutely one of those I’d put in the Top 3 of this MBFW Russia season.

MOSCOW, RUSSIA - OCTOBER 22: Alena Akhmadullina show during day 2 of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS16 at Manege (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
MOSCOW, RUSSIA – OCTOBER 22: Alena Akhmadullina show during day 2 of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS16 at Manege (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
MOSCOW, RUSSIA - OCTOBER 22: A model walks the runway at the Alena Akhmadullina show during day 2 of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia SS16 at Manege (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
 (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)

“Vorresti andar sulla terra
Non sai che gran sbaglio fai
Se poi ti guardassi intorno
Vedresti che il nostro mar
E’ pieno di meraviglie
Che altro tu vuoi di più
In fondo al mar
In fondo al maaaar”

Chi si ricorda questa canzoncina della Disney cantata dal gambero Sebastian de “La Sirenetta” ? Io sì, e mi è subito venuta in mente quando ho visto sfilare le prime creazioni di Alena Akhmadullina durante la Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. La passerella si è trasformata in un mare abitato da piccoli pesciolini ricamati su tessuti trasparenti e delicati quanto l’acqua dell’oceano. Le modelle apparivano dietro ad un’antica costruzione navale, avvolte da forme minimaliste, pure e setose, arricchite da piccoli dettagli di pelliccia blu e bianca, evocanti la schiumosità e la tempestosità delle onde. Immerse in sfumature di blu, le modelle, ora creature marine, venivano illuminate da un bianco puro e non adulterato, abbellito qua e là da colorati animaletti marini. Persino gli accessori rievocavano la limpidezza delle acque oceaniche: le borse come bolle o perle e gli orecchini come conchiglie, rendevano il tutto ancora più elegantemente raffinato e genuino. Molti erano i dettagli nascosti, ma quello che più spiccava era sicuramente il binomio tra maestria e tradizionalismo e quello tra arte e moda. Infatti, così come nella collezione autunno/inverno la stilista ha preso ispirazione dai paesaggi russi della pittrice sovietica Tatiana Mavrina, anche in questa collezione ha evidentemente reso omaggio all’arte, precisamente al pittore e incisore giapponese Katsushika Hokusai e alla sua famosa onda di Kanagawa, anche se teoricamente è ispirata a un personaggio epico russo di nome Sadko.

Questa sfilata con il suo equilibrio tra colori e forme, tecnicità e artisticità, è senza dubbio una di quelle che farei rientrare nella Top 3 di questa stagione di MBFW Russia.

23

(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
 (Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
(Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Image for MBFWR)
L'onda di Kanagawa
L’onda di Kanagawa

2 thoughts on “Alena Akhmadullina S/S 2016 collection: fashion under the sea”

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